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Do you like the sea in winter and walking in tranquility without the suffocating heat and August crowds? With summer behind us, most venues on the Amalfi Coast close their doors for a well-deserved break and the villages empty out as most tourists leave. But the winter months also have much to offer visitors! Read on to discover the perks and events that make winter special on the Coast!

by Roberta Cascone

The Amalfi Coast is wonderful in every season: spring is ideal for exploring its paths and observing the rebirth of nature; summer is perfect for those who love nightlife and attending the most fashionable beach clubs, while autumn and winter are the quieter months, the ones in which to enjoy the villages and cultural attractions finally free from the crowds of tourists, with an eye on your wallet too! With the arrival of winter, it is obvious that the temperatures drop and the rain comes too: don't despair! There are many activities to do if the weather is not the best: click here to discover them in detail. 
What's more, during these months the Coast rediscovers the peace that is absent in summer, and you can visit towns like Amalfi, Positano or Ravello in total quiet and without stressing about finding parking; what's more, you don't even have to book restaurants and hotels too far in advance!
Finally, there is no shortage of events-from festivals to processions to Christmas markets and towns lit up like nativity scenes-there is a world of things to do and discover!

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The Amalfi Coast

Winter on the Coast: what to know

If you are planning to visit the Coast from October to February, here are our suggestions!
First of all, the weather in these months is very variable: if in October it is not uncommon to come across beautiful sunny days that can also be spent at the beach, from November onwards temperatures drop and rain arrives: always carry a k-way and an umbrella with you so that you are not unprepared!
Given the low tourist numbers, you will be able to book your vacation even a few days before departure. And that's not all: you'll notice that the prices of hotels and b&bs are also lower than in summer, even of those near the centers of the most popular towns, such as Amalfi and Positano.
In addition, even though city traffic is greatly reduced in the winter months, driving along the narrow Amalfi state road is still recommended only for the most experienced, due to the presence of twists and turns. Alternatively, there is a cheaper and equally charming way to get around the Coast: Travelmar fast ferries stop at all major ports and operate throughout the winter. Keep an eye on their website to stay up-to-date on rides!

Winter on the Coast: what to do

Don't let low temperatures and a little rain stop you! The villages of the Amalfi Coast are wonderful even in winter. As I have already suggested, there are many activities to do indoors.

If you are a history buff, you can take a plunge into the past by visiting the MAR - Roman Archaeological Museum in Positano, which will take you on a discovery of an extraordinary Roman-era villa that still has its colorful frescoes intact.

In Amalfi, on the other hand, you can learn so much about one of the Coast's oldest activities, namely the production of the world-famous Amalfi paper! At the Paper Museum, in fact, you'll have the chance to take a close look at the tools and techniques used to make paper; guided tours and many initiatives for children are planned. 

Also in Vietri sul Mare there is an unmissable stop for lovers of the area's traditions: the Ceramic Museum at Villa Guariglia! Here you can take a journey through the history of this very ancient art, among a thousand colors and shapes, which has become one of the most well-known symbols of the Amalfi Coast in the world!

The Paper Museum in Amalfi and Villa Guariglia in Vietri sul Mare

The most anticipated events

The arrival of winter does not mean the end of every event, quite the contrary! 

In late November, Amalfi prepares for the heartfelt Feast of St. Andrew the Apostle, the town's patron saint. Saint Andrew is celebrated twice a year: once in the summer (I told you about it here) and once on the day of his death, November 30. This day is very dear to all Amalfitans, who participate in large numbers in the procession of the effigy of the saint through the streets of the city. The most exciting moment, however, is the final run up the marvelous staircase of Amalfi Cathedral, by which the Saint is brought back to the church, greeted by loud applause.

Then, with December, the villages come alive with thousands of twinkling lights! Christmas decorations appear everywhere, making the small coastal towns resemble many nativity scenes. 

Already on the night of December 7-8, the feast of the Immaculate Conception, very exciting processions are organized, accompanied by bonfires and popular music, as in the case of Cetara.

If you love Christmas, however, you can't not go to Salerno! This is precisely where the most anticipated event of the month takes place, with the now-famous Luci d'Artista! From November 24, 2023 to January 21, 2024, the waterfront and historic center will be decked out with hundreds of light installations. Every year the event attracts thousands of visitors and fans, who do not want to miss the spectacle of Southern Italy's most famous illuminations! It is an opportunity not to be missed to breathe in the Christmas air and walk around in a magical atmosphere!

On the Coast, the feast of flavors also never stops! At the end of December, at the height of the holidays, Positano hosts the Christmas Zeppola Festival: on the beach of Marina Grande, facing the sea and the characteristic colorful houses perched on the mountain, you can taste the typical fried and sugar-coated doughnuts: mouth-watering!

Saint Andrew's procession and the "Luci D'Artista" event in Salerno

Winter on the Coast: what to eat

If you are a lover of good food, even the specialties of autumn and winter will not disappoint! 
Chestnuts, for example, are the stars of a festival held in Scala in mid-October, where you can taste them in all sorts of ways. A place of honor goes to the chestnut tart, which is a short pastry dessert filled with chestnut cream flavored with lemon and vanilla.
Also, autumn is the best time to taste seafood, including clams.
Then, in December, it's the turn of countless Christmas recipes! Between struffoli, zeppole, minestra maritata... there really is something for everyone!

In conclusion, there is no shortage of reasons to come to the Amalfi Coast even in winter: tradition, gastronomy, culture and beauty are here waiting for you 365 days a year!

The struffoli

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  • To check the opening hours of the MAR - Roman Archaeological Museum in Positano, click here.
  • To check the opening hours and activities of the Amalfi Paper Museum, click here.

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